Zeyrek Cinili Hamam opened in Istanbul last spring after 13 years of restoration.Murat Germen/Zeyrek Cinili Hamam
Apart from the naked paper panties, I lie with my two girlfriends on a hot marble slab, staring at the white dome ceiling. Star-shaped cutouts draw in daylight, spilling soft shadows around the scalloped arches, highlighting the building’s classic Ottoman design.
We are not sacrificed by God.
We absorb the heat and grandeur of the historic Zeylek Sinilli Hammam, which opened in Istanbul last spring after 13 years of restoration transformed it into a stunning, luxurious hideaway.
Zeylek Sinilli Hammam is one of the ancient treasures of the city, built in the early 1500s. It was commissioned by Admiral Hayredin Barbarossa of the Ottoman Empire and designed by Mimar Sinan, the lead architect of the Suleyman of the Grand Court. Built to serve the community, the Hammam has fallen into abandoned over the years. why? An article by Turkish news outlet Anadolu Ajansi put the reason for the introduction of indoor plumbing and turned bathing into a more personal event. People stopped going to public baths.
Hammam culture goes back more than two millenniums. It was popular in the Roman Empire, Hammams or bathhouses, and was also common in the Middle East, North Africa, Andalusia, Central Asia and India.
Built in the early 1500s, Zeilek Sinirhimham is one of the ancient treasures of Istanbul.IbrhimÖzbunar/Zeyrek Cinili Hamam
As a place of cleansing and purification, they have traditionally been open to people of all life and religion.
I’m a spa and history buff so I decided to see what this hammam offered. I knew it wasn’t like the private indulgence I received at a North American spa. I was surprised at how different it was.
We had a taxi on a cobbled street in the Zeyleck district. I found the entrance and was led to the women’s section. Men have their own space
Our attendants brought us a refreshing rose sorbet drink before our treatment. Cool and ruby red, it was a tasty tart.
The treatment of Zeylek Sinilli Hammam is based on ancient techniques with a modern touch. My friend and I chose the basic treatment: 1 hour soap scrubbing and massage. Other offerings included clay masks and anti-aging creams.
The attendant led us into the locker line. We took off our clothes and got our hands on the down pants. One of my friends was thinking ahead and wearing the bottom of their swimsuit. As long as your top half is naked for a soap massage, you can choose what to wear below. Sliding into the provided robe, we followed the attendant to a steamy, dome-shaped women’s hall (or sicaklik).
When the Marmara Group purchased it in 2010, the spa building was abandoned. The renovation was expected to take three years, but the discovery of Byzantine reservoirs under Hammam and other valuable artifacts delayed the restoration.Murat Germen/Zeyrek Cinili Hamam
The robe was hung on the pegs and placed it on the hot slab for about 15 minutes. I was a little nervous at first. We were supposed to do something while lying there? no. It was the first stage of treatment and was intended to relax the muscles. A glance around the hall I noticed the other woman sitting on a tap of running water and was rinsed and massaged.
This was a community experience, with everyone in the same undressing state. It’s not like home.
The heat was intense. However, warmth helped loosen the knot brought about by winding up a heavy travel bag. I was melting into marble. Before I became a puddle, my hammam therapist (or Natır) was a small, dark-eyed woman who didn’t speak English and took me with her hand and led me to a marble seat next to a brass basin.
She poured cold water over me and rubbed my skin with a slightly polished linen case mitt, washing away any dead skin. After that, the foam began to foam. My attendant lifted a cotton toba pouch from the soapy bath and I was covered in a cloud of foam.
She then massaged my neck, shoulders, arms and calves. The knot melted like candy in the rain.
After the final rinse and hair wash I dried it in a gorgeous white towel. Putting on my robe, I headed to the woman’s cold room (or Sogkruk). A Turkish rug with red and blue patterns lay on a grey marble floor, covered in relaxed pieces beckoning striped pillows. The smooth wooden panels of butternut covered one wall, leaving fragments of the original painted interior remaining on the other walls. I stretched out and slept like a slumber by the gentle splash of the fountain in the middle of the room.
Glowing pink, I was clean and rubbed like the new potatoes. However, the visit was not finished yet. After we got dressed, we all headed to the adjacent museum to learn more about the restoration.
The treatment of Zeylek Sinilli Hammam is based on ancient techniques with a modern touch.Barbaros Cangurgel/Zeyrek Cinili Hamam
A fragment of the original structure discovered during reconstruction was found. Like Byzantine stone carvings and ceramics, fragments of Iznitile in original blue and white patterns were on display. I admired the old bathing bowl and mother-of-pearl comb, and was particularly photographed in a collection of bathing shoes on an exquisite wooden platform.
The spa building was doomed when it was purchased in 2010 by Marmara Group, a private real estate investment company headquartered in Istanbul. The renovation was expected to take three years, but the discovery of Byzantine reservoirs under Hammam and other valuable artifacts delayed the restoration.
The biggest challenge was to maintain the historic layer of the building, said Yavuz Suyolcu, director of construction and projects for the Marmara Group.
“The first four years were dedicated to research, drilling and documentation, while the next seven focused on strengthening the structure, preserving historical elements, and restoring the water and heating system,” he explained.
The last three years included designing museums and event spaces, he added.
Hammam bathing rituals are part of Turkish culture. Modernity and home plumbing may have reduced its importance, but last year Al Jazeera reported a renaissance of practices in Istanbul, citing a series of hammam restorations.
“Restoring and reintroducing Hammam culture into the community will ensure its survival,” Suyork said. “The functioning hammams will always remain relevant. It is not just a building. It is part of Istanbul’s identity and is now preserved for future generations.”
For foreigners, a peek into this cheerful Turkish bathing culture was a ritualistic spoilt that I have never experienced before. Clean has never felt so attractive and luxurious.
If you’re going
Book your booking online in advance at Zeyrekcinilihamam.com. Some taxi drivers inflate the fares, so instead of taxis, you’ll take Uber from the hotel. Bring your hairbrush or other shower items you may need. Robes and paper underwear are available. If you’re very shy, bring your own bottom. However, it must be topless. Men and women receive treatment in separate areas. You can pay with a credit card, but bring cash to tilt your attendant.
Hammam treatments vary, starting at $150 for a 50-minute scrub, and up to 105-minute treatment with hand and foot massages is $370. For more information, please visit Zeyrekcinilihamam.com
